Cast of Characters

 

 

It seems important here to introduce the cast of characters that will be a significant part of my pilgrimage going forward. Before we met at Fynbos Estate in Paardeberg on October 14, we’d been communicating via a WhatsApp group created by Cape Camino since September 10. The five women Cynthia and I were meeting were meant to walk the rest of the pilgrimage with us. We’d end together in Langebaan a month later, on November 12, and two of the women would continue on to the Peninsula together. 

 

I’d formed impressions of each of my fellow pilgrims based on those early WhatsApp conversations, and was optimistic about the potential friendships and getting to experience all those new life stories. At best, I figured that month of walking together would forge lifelong friendships – a special sisterhood of shared hardship and joy. I was still deeply connected to four fellow pilgrims from my first Cape Camino, and we had walked together a much shorter time. I allowed the possibility that this new group might end up less connected than I hoped, walking in separate pods, but with respect and mutual care. If any of the women turned out like two from my previous walk with huge issues that impacted the whole group negatively, I was prepared to let them be and walk my own walk. I had learned from the first walk and was actually looking forward to trying out new skills. I also had my growing friendship with Cynthia, and that could be enough. 

 

The reality turned out to be quite different.

 

This is what I knew before we all met that first night:

 

N. was living in Australia, had been for several years, but grew up in South Africa. She was walking solo, and carrying her pack. We had several small conversations on the group about previous experiences. I felt a connection with her from the beginning, in part because I love all things Australian, and in part because of the upbeat tone of her messages. 

 

Clare, Anna-marie, and Gwen were friends from East London, 1000km east of Cape Town. Clare went by Clare Bear and had walked many pilgrimages previously as well as slack packing in her own country. Anna-marie was quieter on the group, but warm and friendly. She was especially interested in N., because they were the two who would finish with the Peninsula together. Gwen was very warm and positive, a big user of happy stickers. Of the three, Clare was the chattiest, and often offered advice to the group. I was initially envious that they were walking as friends since none of my friends would walk with me, and curious about their history. It seemed like Clare and I might bond over a strong passion for walking in any form. 

 

A. was a Hungarian woman from Germany currently living in Cape Town. She used the WhatsApp group extensively to get information about the walk and communicated there more than anyone. Her messages were voice messages because she was uncomfortable with English. She said she had walked many pilgrimages in Europe, that she was a slow walker because of her knees. She sought advice about poles and packs. She talked a lot about blisters and blister treatment. Her messages were chatty and friendly, and she often repeated herself from message to message. I was a little concerned about her level of neediness, but otherwise looked forward to spending time with someone who had walked pilgrimage frequently. 

 

Before we met in Paardeberg, I didn’t know what any of them looked like, or how old they were. 

 

As it turned out, the seven of us would only be together as a group until October 24 (not November 12), when N. would change her itinerary to get away from A. After that there were six of us until October 28, when one of the East London women would end her pilgrimage as originally scheduled. I learned of that schedule only later into the walk. When she left, there was a tense week of walking as five. Then we were four after November 5, when A. would end her pilgrimage early. 

 

Three other people joined the group of four remaining pilgrims, as planned, on November 7. 

 

Ina and Frikkie, who had walked with me for 25 days two years before, had signed up for five days of this walk. They are my age, two of the most adventurous people I know, and the loveliest couple in every way. I was beyond excited to see them again, and to have allies at that point.

 

Nicole, Cynthia’s daughter, joined us at the same time. She was there to support her mom and to have a much-needed getaway from her busy life as a doctor and mom of two young children. She was a breath of fresh air.

 

N. asked me early in the walk to not use her name in anything I wrote about the pilgrimage, saying she was a private person and didn’t want her name out there. I made the decision to not use A.’s name, knowing at the end that even if she were communicating with me, she would have wanted the anonymity. The others all granted permission for their names to be used.

 

In many ways, Cape Camino itself is a significant character in this story. Peggy and Gabrielle, the daughter and mother who created and manage the miracle that is this walk, often became the focus as characters, but really it was their creation that walked with us, that we walked upon, that worked its way into and through us. What follows below is Cape Camino as they define themselves. It’s important to understand what information was available to us before we began walking. The why of that will become clear going forward.

 

From the Cape Camino website:

 

A Camino is a sacred walking route hosted by the local community. Every country has its own culture, history and natural environment, so each Camino will have its own flavour.  No two countries will offer the same Camino. 

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Cape Camino, The Way of Table Mountain, showcases South African diversity, along a network of routes, over 700 kms of (mostly) off-road path.

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This long-distance personal pilgrimage route offers space, time, adventure, meditation, fellowship, challenges and triumphs. The necessary components to any worthwhile journey.

 

As the pilgrim, you are the guest. The diverse, sacred spaces and friendly, local neighbourhoods are your hosts. Table Mountain, two oceans, farm lands, wine lands, forests and beaches are your setting. 

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​Cape Camino is not an organised hike or tour- it is a personal pilgrimage route. As the pilgrim, you manage your expectations and if challenges occur that are unresolvable, you contact your hosts for assistance.

 

From the Preparation and Planning document sent to all of us before the walk:

 

A pilgrimage, according to many disciplines, is a space to cleanse. It is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or higher good, through the experience.

 

To turn a walk into a pilgrimage set the intention to do so. Know that the unexpected will occur, things may not go according to plan, and you will be tested and challenged throughout. But most of all, keep your awareness: of how you feel, what you think, how you react.

 

When you squeeze an orange, orange juice comes out- what

comes out of you when you are squeezed?

 

Cape Camino supports small/medium, family-run, local establishments and the revenue generated goes directly to the communities which creates opportunities to work and

thrive.

 

You’ve chosen to walk this Camino with the help of an organised itinerary and we have prearranged your hosts and stopovers. Due to the nature of their daily lives and businesses, unexpected changes may arise and we may have to change your itinerary.

 

It is best to minimise expectations and observe your response to what life offers.

 

We have organized for you, to the best of our ability, access to information to assist you with your journey. But it remains your journey and your responsibility to use the experience to best maximise your intentions. We encourage you to do your own research ahead of time, to make the journey your own and find your space on Camino.

 

The last line of the Indemnity Form we all had to sign:

 

I agree to manage my own expectations when on Camino. I will be considerate and respectful to hosts and other pilgrims. 

 

From our WhatsApp welcome message:

 

This is a personal pilgrimage route and not an organised hike.

 

And it’s your journey. Your outcomes are based on your inputs and intentions.

 

Okay. That’s it. There’s nothing left for me now but to continue with the story, something I’m feeling some strong resistance to. It was hard enough doing these days with these people the first time. To go back on purpose, to put myself back there, to do it with the intention of clarifying my own part in things is no easy task. As I said in the very beginning of this story, there are no villains here. But it sure felt like there were for much of the walk going forward.